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The Birth of Suneet Varma’s ‘Pakeezah’ Collection for Aulerth

Suneet Varma needs no introduction. One of our first design partners, his fashion sensibilities revolve around immortalizing glamour and timeless style. A firm advocate of meticulous craftsmanship, Suneet’s everlasting love for sartorial research ensures his brand exudes fantasy and sexy sophistication. In his second jewelry line for Aulerth, the ‘Pakeezah’ collection, he transmutes his fondness for Mughal art forms into eternal pieces of jewelry.
Excerpts from our interaction with Suneet Varma. Scroll down to read more.
How would you describe the collection to your patrons? 
The ‘Pakeezah’ collection captures finer nuances of Mughal art forms and architecture. This is a very unique jewelry line. The encrypted detailing, motifs, jewel-toned stonework, and the overall design essence of the collection will spark joy in the hearts of every wearer.

How did you translate your design sensibilities to this jewelry line?
The ‘Pakeezah’ collection draws inspiration from the design language of the Mughal architecture and the Mughal empire. I am an admirer of their karigari, architecture, inlay work, engraving, geometric patterns, and unique ways of using colors and stones. And when I say, I was inspired by the Mughal empire, I don’t necessarily mean the empire in India; I mean the Mughal empire across – right from Turkey to Uzbekistan, and this side of Asia. I methodically looked at their art forms before putting this jewelry line together.

If you have to depict the essence of this collection in just one line, what would you say? 
The ‘Pakeezah’ collection depicts nuances of Mughal art forms in the most beautiful way.

How did you choose the stones, color palette, and style for this collection? 
Historically, the concept of jeweled stones was born in the Mughal empire. They were the first ones to celebrate the beauty of emeralds, sapphires, rubies...
In my last jewelry line for Aulerth, we had played with a gorgeous repertoire of pastel-colored stones; hence, this time around, I wanted to explore the idea of rich jewel tones. The ‘Pakeezah’ collection has a lot of deep-colored stones like emeralds, garnets, etc.

What do you love the most about this collection? 
I love the fact that this collection looks incredibly well made, which it is. We are very particular about our jewelry at Aulerth. Our jewels are spectacularly made – right from detailing to manufacturing, making, finishing, and plating – every aspect of jewelry making is done immaculately. And, this is also true for the Suneet Varma brand – from our couture lines to jewelry – everything is crafted impeccably and with love.


Any styling tips? What’s the best way to pair these jewelry pieces? 
With the onset of the wedding season, these jewels can be worn beautifully as a bridal suite. However, the jewels are versatile; you can play around with them and style them in myriad ways. A necklace can be worn on a chiffon sari and even on a crisp white shirt. A bracelet can be styled in both Indian and western ensembles. I believe, a spectacular piece of jewelry should never be restricted to one particular way of wearing/styling; it should be worn and celebrated in countless ways.

What’s your favorite piece from the collection? 
I love the Kalgi (Reza Head Jewel & brooch). I also love the Paasa (Nasrin Head Jewel).

A seminal moment in your relationship with Aulerth…
Honestly, I love many things about working with Aulerth. I am very connected to the team. Vivek Ramabhadran (Founder & CEO, Aulerth) is someone who I’ve always looked up to; I value his friendship and business acumen. I was part of the phase when Aulerth’s idea was born; I was part of all the initial conversations…and this will always be very special to me.

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